There's a smashable, crisply toasted roll filled with porchetta-like ham, lettuce, salsa criollo (like vinegared onions) and chilli ($9) that would make a good office lunch. The short blackboard menu lists taberna specials from anticucho to causa – the sort of middle-ground, comfort food Peruvians know as criollo. Yes, well, I'll be feeling the opposite of alive if I don't eat something soon. "It gives them an ethereal elegance I have never experienced before." "He ages his piscos, which is unheard of," says Alkon. There are 10 piscos listed, including the Inquebrantable #6 from Pepe Moquillaza. The El Capitan cocktail ($20), a Negroni/Manhattan gone wild, uses Pisco del Parral Italia from Peruvian Distillers along with Rosso Vermouth, Campari and bitters. Served in a dainty glass coupe, frothy with egg white, tart with lime and dotted with bitters, it's dangerously drinkable. Pepito's pisco sour ($19) uses Pisco Quierolo, a pure single-varietal distilled from the quebranta grape. The heart of Pepito's is the stool-lined bar, and the heart of the bar is, of course, pisco. "I want my guests to feel alive!" says cinematographer turned restaurateur Jose Alkon, when asked what he wants for his newly landed Marrickville taberna, Pepito's.įor him, the alivest place on earth is the Barranco precinct in Lima, Peru, a seething mass of street art, coffee shops, colonial mansions, restaurants and secret bars fuelled by pisco, the clear, brandy-like spirit distilled from wine grapes that is to Peru what whisky is to Scotland.
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